Innovation has always been a hallmark of fashion and a driver for brands, whether through the invention of sewing machines or high-performance fabrics. Now, 3D printing is becoming more commonplace as brands look to be increasingly efficient in manufacturing and experiment with more intricate, innovative designs.
“3D printing, or additive manufacturing, creates objects layer by layer from designs that are generated digitally,” says Dara Senders, an independent luxury fashion technology consultant and designer for North American and European markets, who has worked extensively in product development. Senders says
this method appeals to brands on a creative level, as it allows for intricate and customized designs. “The possibilities with 3D printing are endless, paving the way for much more artistic creativity and innovation for brands wanting a competitive edge, especially among luxury houses,” she states.
Additionally, as more and more brands add sustainability practices to their missions, 3D printing can significantly reduce waste overall and be a smart business decision. “It allows for the reduction of material waste by utilizing the exact materials needed to create a garment or accessory. 3D printing also allows for faster production time turnarounds for retail supply orders and can even be used for pop-up shops. It’s on-demand production,” Senders explains. “There are many long-term benefits in design flexibility, waste reduction, and adaptability, which contribute to a brand’s overall appeal and eco-friendly image.”
Luxury fashion houses have always been able to balance tradition and heritage with cutting-edge technology. A good example of this balance is Louis Vuitton. The centuries-old brand has used 3D printing in its apparel and accessories, including at the 2024 men’s pre-fall show, where it debuted the LV Cobra shoe. Under the tutelage of Louis Vuitton Men’s creative director Pharrell Williams, the shoe utilized the foam technology of 3D printing brand Zellerfeld. The shoe retained the maison’s signature iconography, resulting in an elegant, functional, and efficient shoe.
More luxury examples abound. Under Georgian fashion designer Demna’s creative direction, Balenciaga has been experimenting with 3D printing in everything from jackets to dresses for its spring/summer 2024 collection. The brand even used 3D printing in a couture collection last year for a Joan of Arc-inspired armor dress made of resin. Dior has also been experimenting with incorporating 3D technology into its collections, such as its winter 2023 Dior Homme footwear collection and summer 2024 eyewear collection.
One of the greatest boundary-pushers of the 21st century is undoubtedly Iris van Herpen, who frequently incorporates 3D printing into designs, and has done so for many years. The designer is so well respected for combining art and technology that she just finished a solo show at the Musée des Arts Dècoratifs in Paris. “Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses” showcases the relationship between technology and high fashion and why van Herpen is considered a pioneer and true innovator in the space.
States Christine Macel, the director of the museum, “Iris van Herpen is a visionary 40-year-old designer who creates clothes that go beyond fashion, incorporating all the elements [air, sea, nature, etc.] and appealing to all the senses, combining savoir-faire and technology. She has managed to create a unique world, somewhere between fairy tale and science fiction.”
Senders is also a fan of the designer, saying, “van Herpen and her 3D-printed masterpieces are a testament to how this technology can be a game changer for artistic expression and complex garment development in the fashion industry.”
While luxury fashion houses have not let go of tradition, they are cognizant of the fact that technology can only help them in terms of sustainability and possibilities. It is clear that 3D printing can work as both an innovation and a solution for fashion brands and designers.