A new generation of women has taken the helm at some of the biggest brands in fashion, ushering in a golden era of women-led labels.
When Maria Grazia Chiuri took the helm as creative director of the historic house of Dior in 2016, a simple white T-shirt from her debut collection went viral. The garment featured the statement from the essay and TED talk by Nigerian author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie “We Should All Be Feminists” and laid the foundation for what to expect from the maison’s first-ever female designer—powerful clothes made for powerful women.
At the time, Chiuri explained that while Dior had always been about femininity, that notion was created through the lens of multiple male designers.
“I thought to myself, ‘if Dior is about femininity, then it is about women. And not about what it was to be a woman 50 years ago, but to be a woman today,’” she says.
Likewise, Delphine Arnault has been at the forefront of LVMH’s success, shifting its focus in a meaningful way. The eldest of the Arnault children, she is the driving force behind the LVMH Prize for Young Designers and proved instrumental in recruiting talent such as Raf Simons at Dior, Jonathan Anderson at LOEWE, and Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton. Now CEO and chair of Dior, she has been making history and influencing change since 2003, when she was the first woman appointed to the board of LVMH.
Chiara Ferragni at the Christian Dior Haute Couture Spring Summer 2017 show (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)
Another leader in the fashion world breaking the glass ceiling is Leena Nair, who became the only woman of color helming a major global luxury brand when she was named CEO of CHANEL in 2022. More than 60 percent of management positions at CHANEL (valued at $56 billion) are held by women, proving just how profitable collective female empowerment can be.
Powerful women are leading but also designing for brands—resulting in entirely new ways to express what women want to wear. From Chemena Kamali’s unanimously applauded recent debut at Chloé to what editors call the “Toryaissance” regarding Tory Burch’s new and highly sought-after runway collections, female designers are rightfully receiving critical and commercial acclaim.
Left: Dior CEO Delphine Arnault at the Élysée Palace (Photo by Christian Liewig-Corbis/Getty Images)
Right: Chanel CEO Leena Nair (Photo by Matteo Prandoni/BFA)
The Costume Institute at Manhattan’s Metropolitan Museum of Art even dedicated an entire exhibit to the premise of “Women Dressing Women” in the fall of 2023. The curation explored the legacy of pioneering couturiers and championed innovative designers of the moment, such as Diane von Furstenberg, Norma Kamali, Betsey Johnson, Phoebe Philo, Simone Rocha, Iris van Herpen, Laura and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte, Collina Strada’s Hillary Taymour, and Anifa Mvuemba of Hanifa.
“When I think of women-led brands, I think of empowerment, intention, action, creativity, and authenticity,” says Federica Parruccini, a brand and communications strategist. “I find that female creators inspire loyalty and admiration among women [through] intentional community building, friendships that come with experience, and connecting over common interests.”
Phoebe Philo, who had a leading role in how women the world over dressed thanks to influential stints at Chloé and CELINE, is still considered a gold standard reference when it comes to the appeal of female designers. Parruccini recognizes this and states, “Women know what women want and how they want to feel. I still remember trying on Philo’s Celine for the first time. Everything was perfect. Whether it’s through tailoring or versatile silhouettes, female-designed pieces have a way of making women feel confident and comfortable. There is a certain sensibility there.”
Left: Phoebe Philo’s Chloé Fall 2004 Ready to Wear Runway Show (Photo by Dominique Maitre/WWD/Penske Media via Getty Images)
Middle: Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior Pre-Fall 2024 Show held at the Brooklyn Museum (Photo by Rodin Banica/WWD via Getty Images)
Right: Phoebe Philo’s Chloé Fall 2004 Ready to Wear Runway Show (Photo by Dominique Maitre/WWD/Penske Media via Getty Images)
Having worked alongside Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen, Ulla Johnson, Alejandra Alonso Rojas, and now Grover Rad’s Lizzie Grover Rad, Parruccini is keenly aware that their success comes down to an unrivaled understanding of how garments should fit different body types.
“Women like to design for themselves and their bodies and what they know their friends will love in order to feel inherently good and cool in. Each season, their customers know what fit they are getting, and they look forward to updated styles, prints, and fabrics,” she explains. “It’s important, too, especially if it’s a woman designing for other women, that there is a visible face behind the brand, with some type of presence and emotional resonance.”
With these kinds of philosophies motivating the women leading and designing for luxury brands, their customers are sure to feel empowered through what they choose to wear.
