The groundbreaking work of ‘90s fashion brands influences today’s fashion.
You’re not imagining it: the baggy jeans, bucket hats, slip dresses, logo mania, and fanny packs of the 1990s are back. Iconic brands like Marc Jacobs, Prada, Tommy Hilfiger, and Versace took fashion by storm during that decade with their innovative and often subversive styles and strategies, going against previous decades of industry norms. The groundbreaking work these brands did 30 years ago to shift the thinking around fashion is still alive today.
Left: Model Gail Elliott wearing Marc Jacobs’ Grunge-Inspired Collection, one of his last for the Perry Ellis label (Photo by Thomas Iannaccone/George Chinsee/Robert Mitra/WWD/Penske Media via Getty Images) Right: Marc Jacobs Fall/Winter 2023 Look 20 (Photo courtesy of Marc Jacobs)
The fashion of the ‘90s resonated because it was a departure from the structured, excessive style of the ‘80s and the way the industry dictated trends. “Grunge was huge—flannel shirts, ripped jeans, a disassembled aesthetic. It took off with a lot of kids, including myself,” says Brendan Cannon, fashion stylist at The Cannon Media Group.
The grunge aesthetic was such a controversial concept that Marc Jacobs, who was then designing under the Perry Ellis label, was ultimately fired after his spring 1993 grunge-inspired collection launched and was lambasted by critics. Extreme minimalism, as seen at Calvin Klein, and Miuccia Prada’s “ugly-chic” aesthetic became de rigueur. The decade’s individualism, experimentation, and casualness appealed to many, as did the celebrity-driven glamour of brands like Versace (on and off the runway) and the experimentation of street style, born from hip-hop. Fashion was suddenly more robust, experimental, and inclusive of many styles and inspirations.
These qualities resonate with shoppers today, whether it’s Gen Z discovering models and trends for the first time or those whose daily aesthetic relies on t-shirts, jeans, and sneakers, which became a style statement during the ‘90s. Technology now helps move these ideas along at lightning speed and puts the power in the palm of the consumers’ hands. “Social media, influencers, celebrities…they all fuel fashion now and make things go viral immediately,” explains Cannon. “Everyone has a point of view and wants to share it, very much in the spirit of the ‘90s.”
From Left: MARC JACOBS Fall/Winter 2023 Look 21, 22, 23 (Photos courtesy of Marc Jacobs)
The current need for content has changed how information is shared and how brands make business decisions. “Sometimes designers will have things available immediately for purchase after a runway for some instant gratification,” states Cannon. “Before, you’d have to wait months to order an item, and not everything was manufactured.” The downside is that attention spans have diminished, but the upside is that brands receive feedback in real time and can capitalize on momentum quickly.
It’s easy to take the longevity of iconic ‘90s brands for granted now, but back then, they were doing revolutionary fashion work. As the trends cycle back, these brands that stayed true to themselves are reaching newer, larger, more global audiences and putting that ‘90s flavor back in favor organically.
They’ve Always Had It
The ‘90s birthed the supermodel—and these icons are still working it while they build empires.
Left: Cindy Crawford: Crawford still appears on magazine covers and walks in shows, including the cover of Vanity Fair and Vogue and Off-White’s fall/winter 2022 show, where she appeared alongside her daughter, model Kaia Gerber. She also has several home design collections. (Photo by Peter White/Getty Images). Right: Naomi Campbell: The British powerhouse has continued to make runway appearances in shows like Versace, Alexander McQueen, and Dolce&Gabbana. She posed in print campaigns for Alexander Wang and collaborated on a lingerie collection with PrettyLittleThing. (Photo by ALAIN JOCARD/AFP via Getty Images)
Claudia Schiffer: The German model returned to the runway for the first time since 2018 to close the spring 2024 Versace show in Milan. Schiffer is also an executive producer, and her film credits include “ARGYLLE,” “TETRIS,” AND “ROCKETMAN.” (Photo by Daniele Venturelli/WireImage) Center: Eva Herzigová: In addition to serving as an editor-at-large for Vogue Czechoslovakia, she recently fronted Balenciaga’s spring/summer 2024 print campaign. (Photo by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images) Right: Christy Turlington: Turlington currently is the face of CH Carolina Herrera bags and was the closer at Ralph Lauren’s spring/summer 2024 runway show. She is a global humanitarian and advocate for maternal health. (Photo by ANGELA WEISS/AFP via Getty Images)
